DETERMINING THE AMOUNT OF PAPER REQUIRED

• To determine the amount of paper you'll need, measure the height of the wall from the top of the baseboard to the ceiling, then measure the distance around the room on all sides. These measurements are easiest to take at the top of the baseboard.
• Measure the height and width of each door, window or other area not to be papered.
• Now use the convenient wallpaper estimating chart in Fig. 2. This chart is based on 30 square feet per roll. While most manufacturers package 36 square feet per roll, you'll lose about 6 square feet in cutting, matching, trimming, etc.
• Many manufacturers pack paper in double-roll bolts. However, you can still calculate your paper needs by using this chart and then cutting the figure in half where double-roll bolts are used.
• For example, suppose the room is 10' x 12'. This means the distance around the room is 10' + 12' + 10' + 12' or 44'.
• Assuming the ceiling height is 8', the chart shows that 12 single rolls of paper are required. You can deduct a single roll of paper for each two doors or two windows of normal size.

MARKING, MEASURING AND OTHER PREPATORY STEPS It is usually best to start hanging the first strip of wallpaper to the right of a door or window. This makes any break in the pattern of the paper less conspicuous. Now measure the width of the wallpaper and subtract 1". This 1" reduction allows for the butt joint. Mark the width of the wallpaper less 1", at the ceiling line just to the right of the door or window where you will begin (Fig. 3). Now mark the same width at the bottom, and snap a chalk line between these two points (Fig. 4). You can use a plumb bob if you prefer. It's only important that you get a perfectly straight line from floor to ceiling on the right edge of the first strip of paper. Take time to do this job right. You are now ready to mix the wallpaper paste. If you are using pre-mixed paste or pre-pasted paper, this step is not necessary. If you are using paste, read the manufacturer's instructions carefully and follow them exactly. Always use cold water to mix paste. Mix it thoroughly to be sure it is free of lumps. Now tie a string across the top of your paste bucket (Fig. 5). This will keep the brush clean and enable you to brush excess paste out of the brush.

CUTTING AND HANGING PAPER Cut the first strip of paper 6" to 8" longer than the floor-to-ceiling height of the room. Unroll the next strip and match the pattern before cutting the second strip. Some patterns of paper have joining marks along the edge of the paper to guide you in matching the designs. Watch for these marks and align them if they are present. Without such marks, study the pattern carefully and match it before cutting. It is usually wise to cut no more than two or three strips of paper before applying them. Unroll the strip of wallpaper on the cutting table with the pattern side down. Brush the paste on the cut piece, covering half the length of the strip (Fig. 6). Brush the paste out evenly and not too thickly. You may want to add a few drops of food coloring to the paste to tint it slightly. This makes it easy to judge the thickness of the paste and to detect any missed spots. Fold the pasted end of the paper back toward the center. Put the pasted side to the pasted side, avoiding any creases. Slide the paper forward on the table and paste the other half strip, folding it back in the same manner. You can run pre-pasted paper through clear water (Fig. 7). Plastic and metal dip troughs for pre-pasted paper are available. Cut a piece of pipe or dowel rod one inch shorter than the trough. Lay it in the bottom of the trough over the paper. It will hold the paper under water as you pull it out. Pre-plan to determine the type of joint you will use. Most manufacturers now recommend the butt joint (Fig. 8). It leaves no ridge at all, but it is the most difficult joint to make. The edge of one strip is butted tightly against the edge of the adjoining strip. If you force the two edges together too tightly it will form a ridge. If not tightly enough you will leave a gap between the two edges. In the wire lap joint, the edges of the paper are lapped over about 1/16". This requires more skill in matching but leaves less of a ridge. The lapped joint is easiest to use. Simply lap one edge of the paper over the edge of the previous strip and roll it out. You can get a perfect pattern match, but the lap leaves a ridge. Check the manufacturer's recommendation for the type of joint to use with the paper you will be using. Whichever type of joint you use, use it throughout the entire job. Use extreme care when placing the first strip of paper on the wall, since all other strips of paper will be aligned to this first strip. It may be necessary to trim the edge of the paper to assure a proper fit. You can trim the paper with a sharp wheel trimmer knife or a razor knife and a straightedge (Fig. 9). Use extreme care when carrying long strips of pasted wallpaper. Drape the folded paper over your arm like a coat (Fig. 10). Never open the paper until it is in position to hang. When the paper is in position for hanging, unfold the top half of the pasted sheet. Overlap the top edge of the pasted paper (Fig. 11), at the top by about 2". You'll cut away this overlap in the trimming process. Hold the edge of the paper with one hand and pull the pasted fold apart (Fig. 12). The pasted side of the paper should be held firmly against the wall. Line up the right edge of the paper with the chalk mark you have previously made (Fig. 4). Use a smoothing brush to smooth out at the top and bottom, allowing the bottom of the paper to fall into place of its own weight. Brush it out evenly. Continue to apply each sheet of paper in this same manner. Use care to align the design in each succeeding sheet. Trim off the surplus paper at the bottom and top of each strip. Use a metal paint edger and a razor knife to get a clean edge (Fig. 13). Use clean water to rinse all baseboards, casings, etc., with a damp sponge before the paste dries. Let the paper dry about 15 to 20 minutes, then roll out all seams (Fig. 14). Use a regular wallpaper roller and roll thoroughly for a neat job. At the corners, measure at the top and bottom, then cut a strip 1/2" wider than the greatest of these widths (Fig. 15). Bring the paper around the corner to match the next strip. This gives a neat joint in the corner (Fig. 16). Be especially careful when trimming paper along the edges around fireplaces, windows, mantel-pieces, etc. Sometimes the weight of the paper causes it to tear at its narrowest point. Since all switch plates, outlet plates, etc. were removed before papering, you can apply the wallpaper right over these openings. The wallpaper can then be cut out over these electrical outlets when it is dry (Fig. 17). Replace the fixture plates for a finished job. Use special care with flocked wallpaper. For example, do not roll it at the seams, since this often leaves marks that cannot be erased. Brush flocked papers with a natural-bristle smoothing brush. You can also use a sponge or a mohair paint roller. Take special care to keep paste off the surface of flocked wallpaper.

Tools And Material Checklist